Treks around the Isle 2;
For our wedding anniversary we took a break in another of the Landmark Trusts properties (look them up), a tale of weather and history.
The journey from our home to Purton Green in Suffolk took nearly an hour longer than it should have, but it was in many ways a blessed relief.
You see since I put my shorts on in the last post it hasn't rained, not a drop (on my home at least) and it has been hot, really hot and we don't do air-con in England except in cars, so the probable reason the A14 & M11 was one big slow moving car park is that much of the population had just gone out in their cars to get cool, if the trend continues I predict that the English will evolve into mechanised gypsies.
The property had been billed as remote. Remote means something different in Britain to what it does in the US, Canadia or Aus', there are no vast distances to get lost in here just twists and turns in the landscape, forgotten corners. We drove out of one village and a mile down a narrow road was a footpath sign pointing down a rutted track, we trundled down there for half a mile, over a ford (dried up, see above) until the track ended at a fence with three wheelbarrows lent against it, we loaded one with our stuff and set off up the footpath. Getting out of the car and loading the barrow took a minute, by which time we we were soaked in sweat, it was still hot.
The instructions, the man we had been told to ring before we set off had given, was to follow the track until you come across the house, after 400 yards we were starting to doubt, imagining we were being pranked by one of those hideous TV programs where we are filmed slogging up a hill with a barrow full of crap in the boiling heat until a manic presenter jumps from the hedge with a camera crew shouting surprise! and I punch him in the face and set off back down the hill.
However as we get to the top we turn to our right and there it is.
There's a narrow path mown through a vast bank of thistle, dock and Willowherb to a lawn with a Walnut tree, the key the man said, is under a stone, it is. The huge oak door creaks open, this is the door you hear in all those old films where a creaky door is requisite, undoubtedly.
The hall runs from where the thatch fans out on the right to just past the big door on the left, all the way up to the roof and is beautifully cool, a stone floor and one small window at the back, simple air-con.
The original house was built in the 1250's , a minor lords house and what makes it special is the beams that support the roof, at this time they used simple cross beams that could only span the width you see, the outer walls as they are now were actually open supports in a broader hall which was six foot wider, the thatch would have come down to head height. When better methods capable of holding bigger spans were introduced instead of ripping this out and rebuilding they built another further up the road (now gone) and this was downgraded in status and ended up as three cottages for farmworkers, plastered over, bricked up, chimneys and hearths and more doors added, when they bought this in the sixties they ripped it back to the skeleton replacing like for like where the wood had degraded too much. Anyway it's grand, not for arachnophobes though, the bare thatch in the hall is home to hundreds of spider webs.
Oh, there were several ponds surrounding, remnants of the moat (there were wolves back then) and I got bit to fuck by mosquitos watching bats at dusk.
Now the English flag showing the cross of St. George was much in evidence during our trip, we were due to play Sweden in the world cup (another story). George being our patron saint is a strange one, as he was a Turkish or Palestinian member of the Roman army who was killed for his beliefs, so he never graced our shores.
We went to Bury St Edmunds where the first patron saint (of England) St Edmund, (yes you guessed it) is interred, somewhere, probably beneath the tennis courts if the slightly dotty lady who got talking to us in the cathedral there is right, little is known about Eddy other than he was in all likelihood, a local king/chieftain chopped up when the Vikings (Ivar the Boneless?) swept through East Anglia in the late 800's, whatever had been written about him at the time was destroyed in the sacking, burning and high jinx, the Vikings were not big on books.
So we made him a saint as we didn't like the Vikings, he was a Christian (probably) and he came to a sticky end, at least he was English.